I have been starting to look into getting this design printed. I know there are quite a few methods to print the shirt such as CMYK, DTG, Halftones and Simulated Process.
A lot of forums/sites I have did some researching in were fairly helpful but I would rather hear your advice. I know many of you print and many others have experience with this situation.
What would be the most accurate way to print this shirt?

9 Comments
Incarnadine said 5 months ago
I dunno, if you dont mind sacrificing a bit of transparency in those brush strokes, it could be a pretty straightforward 3 color screen print. Halftones would definitely help, too.
Joe said 5 months ago
I think it would be a pretty straightforward 3-color print even with the halftones, right? Your printer should be able to sep and halftone the design really easily. I actually just got some shirts yesterday that were printed by American Icon (http://www.americaniconmerch.com/) that was 3-colors, with halftones, on white, filling about the same amount of shirt as your mockup on a mens small. And it turned out really great!
Incarnadine said 5 months ago
Well, yeah, thats what I meant, haha. Itd be easy with halftones!
Matt Rupp said 5 months ago
Yeah I have to talk to Mammoth about what they think would be best.
I tried to put the brush strokes in half tone and it really took away from the smooth and natural feel that I wanted.
I suppose it depends on how small they can make the halftone to work accurately.
Thank you!
Joe said 5 months ago
Ah ha, cool :)
Like all halftones, it would definitely look better from a couple feet away than right up next to it! So it would probably come out better than it looks on your monitor, where its easy to see the dots.
jimiyo said 5 months ago
If you go to a professional printer, they should be able to do this with 3 colors.
You tell them, 3 colors, and you want the subtle lighter shades just screened down.
You should look for a company that prints their own film through an output machine like the Liberator (not the sextoy), and uses meshes that are higher than your normal joe blow garage printer. Something like 200+. The higher the mesh they have, they smaller the halftones they can capture.
FYI Halftones is what EVERYTHING becomes converted into when you print on apparel, unless you index it. Most pro shops have a machine called a RIP that automatically outputs the grayscale image data into halftones at the best angle/frequency.
If I was still working at the shop, I would tell you I could do this in 3, but if you wanted to make sure the very light pink would show, you might want to consider going 4. But I personally have done things with very drastic contrast like you do and it come out Freshyo.
Heres a one color print. The subtle glow outside is halftones... created from screening down the main color.
http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=10655570
Matt Rupp said 5 months ago
Thank you so much man.
That was a HUGE help!
I am going to talk to Mammoth later on today(when I wake up) about everything you just mentioned.
I really appreciate your knowledge and support.
heavyprints said 5 months ago
Jimiyo is the man.
If I were you, Id definitely ask the printer exactly what they want. I used to print, and different printers do things differently.
Some printers care alot about 'trap' and all types of odds and ends. Some of the ones Ive dealt with dont even know what 'trap' is. lol.. Just depends on the printer.
Matt Rupp said 5 months ago
Yeah thats what Im noticing.
Mammoth seems to be very knowledgeable and have a great idea of what the hell they are doing.
I usually just blab out what Im wanting and they make it happen better than I could imagine!